Raf Simons AW03 Parachute Bomber Jacket

Description

[ARCHIVE RELIC : AW03 VIRGINIA CREEPER / PARACHUTE BOMBER]

Parthenocissus Quinquefolia. The Virginia Creeper. A climbing vine native to North America, known for its five-leaflet structure that transforms into brilliant crimson and purple hues in autumn. This plant was the central inspiration for Raf Simons iconic Autumn/Winter 2003 collection — a collection that redefined the vocabulary of menswear and cemented Simons position as the most influential designer of his generation. This archive restoration is our most ambitious project to date.

The Original Reference

Raf Simons AW03 “Closer” collection, presented in January 2003, was a meditation on youth culture, nature, and rebellion. The parachute bomber jacket became the collection centerpiece — a technical outerwear piece that merged military utilitarianism with Simons signature elongated silhouette. Original pieces now command upwards of 8,000 EUR on the secondary market. Our restoration is built from direct examination of an original archive piece, photographed, measured, and deconstructed to the thread level.

Fabric & Textile Engineering

The outer shell is a custom-developed 100% nylon parachute fabric, woven on a narrow-shuttle loom in Japan Fukui prefecture. Unlike modern parachute nylons that feel plastic and synthetic, this fabric has a distinct paper-like hand-feel and produces the signature swish sound that defines the original. The fabric weight is precisely 68gsm — light enough to float, dense enough to hold structure. We ran seven production trials before achieving the correct drape coefficient.

Graphics & Printing

The Virginia Creeper graphics on the chest and back were among the most technically challenging elements. Original AW03 pieces used a complex multi-layer screen print with a raised, almost three-dimensional texture. We worked with a specialist print atelier in Como, Italy, to reverse-engineer the exact plastisol ink formulation and screen mesh count. Each print requires eight individual screens and a 72-hour curing process. The result is a graphic that matches the original in both color fidelity and tactile quality.

Pattern & Construction

The AW03 bomber features a radically elongated silhouette — the body extends well past traditional jacket length, creating a dramatic proportion that was revolutionary for its time. Our pattern was developed by deconstructing a size 50 original and digitizing every panel. Key construction details: raglan sleeves with articulated elbow darts, a two-way YKK Excella zipper (sourced from the same Japanese supplier Raf used), ribbed cuffs with the exact gauge of the original Milanese rib mill, and a drawcord hem with custom-tooled metal aglets.

Fit Guide

True to the original Raf Simons silhouette: intentionally elongated body, slightly dropped shoulders, slim sleeves. Size 46 fits a US XS-S, 48 fits US S-M, 50 fits US M-L. The jacket is designed to be worn oversized — if you are between sizes, size up for the authentic Raf drape.