Enfants Riches Deprimes FW25 Chapitre XXI Jacket

Description

[BRUTALIST WORKWEAR : ERD FW25 CHAPITRE XXI JACKET]

A brutalist reimagining of classic American workwear, the Chapitre XXI jacket represents Enfants Riches Deprimes at its most confrontational. Henri Levy vision for ERD has always existed at the intersection of punk nihilism and luxury craftsmanship — and this jacket embodies that paradox in every stitch, every distressed seam, every deliberately imperfect detail.

Material & Sourcing

The body is cut from a dense 420gsm US-grown cotton moleskin, milled in North Carolina by one of the last family-owned textile operations in the American South. Moleskin is not leather — it is a heavy-weight cotton fabric that has been sheared and brushed to create a suede-like nap on the face side. This particular moleskin has an exceptionally tight weave that gives it both structure and a subtle sheen under direct light. After weaving, the fabric was shipped to Okayama, Japan, where it underwent a proprietary rope-dyeing process to achieve the deep charcoal-black base.

Distressing & Wash Treatment

Each jacket is individually hand-distressed by a single artisan over a period of approximately four hours. The process includes: razor-slicing along seam lines (controlled depth, never compromising structural integrity), pumice stone abrasion on high-wear zones (elbows, cuffs, pocket edges), and a multi-stage enzyme wash that creates authentic wear patterns indistinguishable from decades of actual use. The distressing is documented and photographed for each piece — no two jackets are alike.

Graphics & Iconography

The back panel features ERD signature subversive screen-print — a multi-layer design that combines gothic typography with degraded photographic elements. The print is applied using a discharge technique that removes the dye from the fabric rather than sitting on top of it, creating a graphic that feels embedded in the textile rather than printed on it. This technique will continue to fade and crack with wear, evolving the jacket character over time.

Construction & Hardware

Triple-needle stitching on all primary seams. Interior seams are bound with cotton twill tape — a detail typically found only on heritage Japanese reproductions. Hardware is custom-tooled: matte black YKK zippers with oversized leather pull tabs, rivet-reinforced pocket corners, and a throat latch that can be worn open or fastened for a more aggressive silhouette. The lining is a lightweight cupro that offers breathability and a smooth drape over layers.

Fit & Silhouette

ERD signature boxy, cropped cut. The body hits at the hip, with a generous chest and shoulder measurement that creates a commanding presence. Designed to be worn as a statement outer layer — pair it with slim trousers or ERD signature skinny denim for the full look. Size S fits US S, M fits US M (recommended to size up if layering), L fits US L, XL fits US XL, XXL fits US XXL.